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Smoked El Presidente


Amber rum. Bitter orange. A slow curl of smoke.

Havana, somewhere in the middle of the 1910s. Bars in America were going dark. Bars in Cuba were filling up. This is the drink that came out of that gap. Poured by Constantino Ribalaigua, printed in a barman's manual in 1915, named for a president that nobody has ever quite agreed on.
It drinks like a Martini that spent a winter in the tropics. Light gold rum brings vanilla and cane. Two vermouths, one dry, one bianco, hold it upright without letting it turn sweet. Orange curaçao lifts the top note. A few drops of grenadine sit underneath, more colour than sugar, tinting the whole thing the shade of late afternoon.
Beech smoke suits it. Mild, clean, faintly sweet - enough to shadow the rum without crowding the vermouth. The smoker sits over the mixing glass and pushes the smoke down onto the stirred drink. Then you strain, and it follows the liquid into the coupe.

Cocktail Ingredients

  • 50 ml light gold rum, 1–3 year old (Havana Club 3 Año)
  • 15 ml dry vermouth, chilled (Dolin Dry)
  • 15 ml bianco vermouth, chilled (Dolin Blanc or Martini Bianco)
  • 10 ml orange curaçao (Pierre Ferrand Dry Curaçao)
  • 2.5 ml grenadine
  • 2 drops saline solution (4:1), or a small pinch of fine sea salt
  • Orange zest twist, to garnish
  • 1 pinch beech wood chips

Cocktail Method

Prepare - Chill a coupe. Cut a wide orange zest twist and set it aside. Load a pinch of beech chips into the smoker.
Make - Combine the rum, both vermouths, curaçao, grenadine and saline in a mixing glass. Add ice and stir until cold and properly diluted — twenty to thirty seconds.
Finish - Sit the smoker over the mouth of the mixing glass and light the chips. Let the smoke build and settle onto the surface of the drink; eight to ten seconds is plenty here. Lift the smoker away, then fine strain into the chilled coupe so the smoke spills over the rim as it pours. Express the orange zest across the surface and drop it in.

The Experience

Nose - Orange oil first, then the beech behind it. Dry and clean, closer to woodsmoke than to a campfire.
Palate - The rum arrives soft, all vanilla and warm cane. The vermouths pull it dry through the middle. Curaçao runs bright across the top, and the smoke sits beneath the lot, holding everything down.
Finish - Long, dry, faintly bitter. The smoke fades slower than the fruit does.
A drink built for a room with the shutters half closed.
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